ToolBox TomGirl Talk
Welcome! I’m Jo Ellen Soesbee, your ToolBox TomGirl.
Just a typical woman on a typical mission: To put a hammer in the hand of every woman and teach her how to use it.
This is where I share my adventures as a DIY woman, and as owner of a woman-run and operated residential repair service – Reliable Repairs. Oh, we do commercial work too. So, there’s A LOT to talk about.
Mostly, I look forward to two things: Sharing the secrets of becoming an independent, toilet-fixing, weather-stripping, money-saving Do-It-Yourself Woman, and learning more about you. What inspires you to DIY, what you get from the experience and how I can support you.
I also give fast tips, great resources and general wrench wisdom in my eNewsletter and in the WomanTalk Live eNewsletter. WomanTalk Live is a radio show hosted by the amazing Ann Quasman. I have the honor of being the show’s Woman’s DIY Expert. What’s more exciting is that I will soon be be teaching Ann how to fix her faucet on YouTube.
It’s all part of my commitment to help women become more independent; to help all of us easily say: “Honey, would ya hand me that hacksaw?”
Kind of rolls off the tongue doesn’t it?
To women holding hammers,
Jo Ellen Soesbee, the ToolBox TomGirl
Dispose-ALL
No one ever told me that you could not grind up all your leftovers or peelings in the garbage disposal. I thought it was a Food Dispose ALL. I am here to give you some good advice and save you frustration time and money.
Do NOT grind up your leftovers, peelings, the dinner leftovers, or the crap from your refrigerator that’s un-identifiable. Really. No matter what you think and what it says on the box, this is not going to keep your garbage disposal in working condition.
Here is my advice on garbage disposal etiquette. You can choose to take it or pay me later to come fix the monster under your sink (the one that growls at you from time to time).
- Scrape the leftovers into the trash can and then rinse the rest into the garbage disposal. Run cold water during and immediately after putting anything in the hole.
- Do not try to ground up fibrous foods such as banana peels, corn husks, celery, or plant vines.
- If you want to fix your disposal yourself be sure to unplug it and turn it off. Check out to see if anything is stuck inside and clear it out. Insert your Allen wrench into the socket at the bottom of the disposal and turn it to try and free the jam. Turn your disposal back on and if it doesn’t work make sure you press the red reset button on the bottom (the button will be popped out if it has been tripped).
- If you have a disposal with no place on the bottom for the Allen wrench, you can stick a wooden broom handle in the hole and try to turn the flywheel. Again, try the reset button.
a. If the water backs up while the disposal is working correctly, the problem is in the drain pipe, not the disposal.
b. Do not use a disposal if you have a septic system because too much food waste will interfere with the normal decomposition of septic waste.
c. To keep the disposal smelling fresh, grind up lemon or lime rinds every once in awhile.
d. To keep the disposal assembly clean, grind up ice cubes every once in awhile.
Ladies, always remember that the systems we use in our lives (including our disposals) operate under the rule that if you put too much garbage in, you will clog. Or, even worse, get too much garbage out.
Here’s an extra tip: If the disposal will not turn on (no noise) than the problem is electrical. You may need a new switch, the circuit may have tripped, or the garbage disposal is dead.
To garbage disposal etiquette,
Jo Ellen Soesbee, the ToolBox TomGirl
Elder Bathroom Safety
This is not a story on how to take care of your aging bathroom. That will be another day when I talk about awesome renovations. Today is about changing your (or your parents) bathroom so that it is safer and more user friendly.
First, let me start with a disclaimer. I am a Baby Boomer and I am over 54 years old. I do not have any parents living but my friends and customers do.
We’ve all heard horrific stories of the elderly being injured in the bathroom. Bathrooms are one of the most dangerous areas in a house. For your Mom or Dad the bathroom can be a real hazard.
“Falls are the leading cause of death from injuries among older persons and the death rate from falls continues to climb. Each year, one in three Americans age 65 and older fall and almost a third of them need medical treatment as a result,” according to the AARP. Did you know that research shows that 75 percent of household accidents happen in the bathroom? This is why it is so important that you provide a safe bathroom as you age.
For most of our Moms and Dads, remaining in their home to live an independent lifestyle is extremely important. Whether they move in with you or stay on their own it is critical that you provide a safe home environment. One of those needs may be to renovate the bathroom to fit their needs.
I have learned that there are certain items that need to be attended to. Here is a short list to help you get started.
- Non-slip rugs
- Install grab bars
- Bright lights
- Bathtub or shower renovations to allow for easy access
- Safety bars near the toilet and sink
To keeping our elders safe,
Jo Ellen Soesbee, the ToolBox TomGirl
Have you forgotten?
I recently returned from a meeting for the National Association of Women in Construction (NAWIC) where we were reminded about job safety. Hearing some of the things I already knew (but wasn’t necessarily doing), made me think about making some changes in my daily habits. Again.
The information I was given was more for contractors but it made me wonder how many of you DIY’ers have gotten lax in your safety precautions also. Hmmmmm. Wonder how many of you remember these things AND do them?
- Have a fire extinguisher in the kitchen (one that has been inspected yearly)
- Know the tools in your toolbox, what they are made for, and only use them for that reason
- Keep your knives and tools with sharp blades – in a safe place, and sharp
- Know and use the 4-to-1 rule for ladders (bet you don’t even know what that is, do you?) – it is designed to remind you that when you are using a straight ladder you are supposed to position the ladder base 1ft away from the wall for every 4ft of ladder height (ladder safety is my worst) – oh, and you don’t stand on the top or next-to-the-top step on a ladder (smirk)
- Remember to check to be sure the power is OFF before you plug or unplug an electrical appliance or tool into the electrical outlet (you could lose a finger or two if it is on and starts spinning out of control. I have seen this and it is NOT pretty)
- Have the numbers for the poison center, emergency personnel, and your point of contact where someone (including you) can find them in case of emergency
- Know that you should only use rubber handled tools when doing any electrical work (as well as rubber soled shoes)
- Know that a hard hat has an expiration date (oh – you don’t wear them at home, do you? – guess that was for me). I never knew this before this weekend.
- Know that not cleaning out the lint filter and dryer exhaust hose can lead to a house fire
- Know that to lift a heavy object you should bend at the knees, hold the load close to your body, and then use your legs (not your arms) to lift the load.
I could go on and on with more of these but I need to stop at 10 because I don’t want you to get overwhelmed and not do any of them. Really, when was the last time you saw a “Mr. Yuck” sticker or looked at your emergency contact list? I can tell you that for me it has been at least 10 years. And yes, I do have visitors with little kids who come to my house, and yes, I have had an accident where I needed my doctor’s number and could not find it. So, enough said.
Here’s to you being a prepared and safe, DIY woman. Hold on to that hammer!
Jo Ellen Soesbee, the ToolBox TomGirl
He NEVER Listens to me!
He never listens to me! How many times have we said that about our boyfriend, husband, son, and boss? Well, let me tell you that what is only a nuisance at home can be critical on the job.
My man on the job (whom I will call Bob-the-Builder in order to protect the innocent), has a tendency to also tune me out. And, because this one particular day he was not listening I was up to my eyeballs in water, and I was not happy.
I was standing in the customers bathtub while Bob-the-Builder was working across the room on the double sink faucet replacement (he gets the hard work of going under the counter). I was asking questions about the replacement set I was about to put on the shower. Bob-the-Builder must have been pretty occupied because when I asked “Did you shut off the water?” he responded that I did not have to shut it off to replace the shower set. I distinctly remember my brain screaming “shut off the water, shut off the water,” but of course I ignored that little voice and went about what I was doing.
Whoosh – I can’t even begin to put into words what happened next. It was a straight out rapid shooting at me directly. There was water spewing out of the faucet at about 600 miles an hour – right at my face, chest and darn-it, my hair! I was so shocked at first that I did not react. Then after the water reached my ankles (which was VERY quickly), I screamed “TURN OFF THE WATER.” Bob-the-Builder was laughing so hard I thought he was going to have a conniption right there and leave me to drown. Finally he pulled himself together, ran down the steps and turned off the main water valve.
To add insult to injury he came back up the steps and said “Hey, you’re the boss – why didn’t you tell me you wanted the water turned off?” What??? He said he had turned his off at the sink and he thought that when I said “Did you shut off the water?” I was talking about his water. Noooooo. That was not right because he has responded that I did not need to shut it off to replace the shower set. “Oh”, said Bob-the-Builder, I guess I wasn’t listening. (Imagine that).
Luckily I wear black shirts and not a see-through-when-its-wet white one (it could have been embarrassing). I worked the rest of the time in extremely wet clothes and then had to walk out of the house barefoot in order to keep my wet shoes off the carpet.
Life as a handywoman can be exciting and a whole lot like being married. Next time I will hit him on the head with a frying pan (or small hammer) and “make” him listen. Oh – and next time that little voice in my head tells me something, even if I already know – I might just listen better.
To better listening,
Jo Ellen Soesbee, the ToolBox TomGirl
Pitter Patter: Is that rain I hear; Again?
Listen to the rhythm of the falling rain telling me just what a fool I’ve been. Does that make you cringe? If you have bad gutters, a leaking basement or any other issues with the rain, it does (or maybe you just hate that song – and I’m sorry that now it is running through your head).
We are into the rainy season and you NEED to be thinking again about all the fixes that you forgot about while we were in the heat wave. You know what I am talking about. Gutters, grading, downspouts, loose siding, cracked foundations, etc.
So here are a couple of pointers I want you to think about and DO something with. No procrastination because the sun is out and you are sitting there drinking a mint iced tea in the back yard around the pool. Get up now before that 6pm thunderstorm hits.
1. If the water is building in the basement you need to haul some dirt up and slope the ground around the foundation AWAY from the house. If that doesn’t work you are most likely going to need a French-drain put in. You will need to call a contractor to do this.
2. Look at your downspout position. Is it leaving the rain water to drain right next to the house? If so, buy an extension and move the water away from the house into the yard further.
3. Check the gutters. Be sure they are cleaned out, don’t have any breaks or damaged areas. (FIX THEM) If you see drip marks on the ground below it means that something is wrong and you need to address the issue because the water is not flowing to where it needs to go.
4. If the gutter is sagging you need to add the brackets back on so that they are stable and don’t come tumbling down during a heavy rainstorm. Or if they have spikes, make sure the spike is hammered in tightly.
5. Keep the area in your basement steps clear of debris. This is the number ONE cause I find for basement flooding. I have found cardboard, toys, bricks, dog balls, and other “gross” things clogging up those drainage holes at the bottom of the steps. If those aren’t checked you can have them clog within hours and the damage is significant in these afternoon downpours.
6. Keep your door sweeps in good condition. Water has a sneaky way of finding a low spot and working its way in under the door. Check them NOW for cracks, loose spots (and maybe you don’t even have one). Can you see daylight under your door (hmmmmm….maybe you might want to add in a door sweep so that BUGS don’t get in – even before the water does).
To keeping dry this fall season,
Jo Ellen Soesbee, the ToolBox TomGirl
Beware of the Snakes, Fakes, and Otherwise Unscrupulous Contractors
This article is a repeat because I recently encountered a situation where I was “laid off” when a customer found someone to do the project “for half the price.” This happened after I had the work scheduled and had already purchased materials. Not a nice way to start my day.
What I am concerned about is that the person she found to do the work for half the price is unlicensed and uninsured. I want to remind you how important it is to do the right thing. So……let me remind you……
I’m not shy. I have no problem drilling the people I’m thinking of hiring to do work for me – whether they are fixing my computer or teaching my kid Russian (and I may not have gone far enough there because my kid does not, in fact, speak Russian).
The point is, I’m not concerned about sounding like a bi@$$h. Why? Because the truth is that drilling down to ensure you are making the right hire is not bi@$$hy. Men do it all the time. It’s business. The people you are screening are going to be doing work for you, not a favor. You are paying them for goodness sake. And if they don’t welcome the third degree, chances are that something is off.
I know that many of you “bi@$$hes” are right there with me. But I also know that sometimes we women tend to sacrifice our wants and needs because we’re being nice (a.k.a. being a pushover). We don’t want to rock the boat. Or because we think we are being budget conscious.
So when it comes to pre-screening our contractors – or overseeing them on the job – we tend to say things like, “Would you like some lemonade?” rather than, “Would you like to get your muddy shoes off my antique rug?”
You are the general contractor of your life. You are the boss. You can be a nice boss, but you have to be smart boss, too.
So, if you are you thinking about hiring a contractor to do a project you can’t DIY (or don’t want to), take my advice and get the quality of work you want instead of, well, a nice big mess.
1. Just because the contractor is listed in the Yellow Pages or does not mean they are licensed and insured. Check for their license number online at: http://www.dllr.state.md.us/license/mhic/ (or your state mhic licensing board address) and ask for proof of insurance. It is VERY important and it is your responsibility to check credentials – buyer beware.
2. The best way to hire a contractor is through word of mouth. But whether you have a referral or not, ask for references. And CALL! Do not be afraid to ask lots of questions: Were you happy with the end result? Were you happy with the process? Was the project completed on time and within budget? (If not, ask for specifics – it might not have been the contractor’s fault). Were the contractor and actual work team polite? Did they listen? What was the experience of having the contractor and his/her team in your home like?
3. Ask for pictures of finished projects like yours. For small jobs, pictures may not be available. In that case, you can review pictures of unrelated projects. You just want to get a sense of the contractor’s work.
4. Ask how many other projects the contractor will be working on in addition to yours. Be sure they are not spread too thin.
5. Check to see if complaints have been filed against the contractor. Check the Consumer Protection Agency or the Better Business Bureau. You can also Google the contractor’s name and business name.
6. Always, and I can’t stress this enough, ALWAYS get a written estimate and/or contract. Make sure that the paperwork spells out what will happen if there is a problem or the cost exceeds the quote. Look for a start and end date. Ask the contractor to break out labor and materials separately. A good rule of thumb: Labor should be about twice the cost of materials.
7. If something makes you unhappy during the course of the project, stop the work until the problem is straightened out. Do not continue with a contractor you are not happy with. No matter how uncomfortable it makes you feel, it’s better to end the relationship than to continue when you are less than pleased.
8. If you are not going to be there while the work is being performed, have someone else stop by, or come home early/leave late on certain days. Always be aware of what is happening.
And, be aware that if they are uninsured and get hurt at YOUR house while doing work for you, they can sue YOU! It does not matter that they came in and worked without insurance and/or a license. You will pick up the bill.
Here’s to women finding the right contractor!
Jo Ellen Soesbee, the ToolBox TomGirl
FANtastic Facts
Below are some pretty “cool” and useful things to know about ceiling fans.
- If you are changing out an old fan with a new one and the unpainted area or hole where the old fan was is too big simply place a medallion above the canopy to cover the spot. (remember to put it there before you wire up your new fan).
- Four blades on a fan are better than five. It moves the air more because of the additional space between the blades.
- If the fan blades wobble you can tape or glue pennies or washers onto the top of the blades to balance things out.
- Install a 32 inch fan for a room up to 64 square feet, a 42 inch fan for a room up to 144 square feet and a 52 inch fan for a room up to 400 square feet in order to get the proper cooling effect.
- Clean the blades on your ceiling fan regularly with a dry lint-free cloth. Dirt causes the blades to become off balance and wobble.
- Don’t use a standard dimmer switch as a remote control for the fan. It may cause damage to the motor. Buy the proper variable speed remote made for ceiling fans.
- It’s common for a ceiling fan motor to emit a humming noise if the wall switch and the fan aren’t the same brand. You can get rid of the noise by replacing the wall switch with a no-hum fan control, available where ceiling fans are sold.
- Stop the light fixture in the fan from vibrating by putting a large rubber band around the neck of the glass globe. The rubber band becomes a buffer for the noise between the globe and the screws that hold it in place.
- Fan blades should be at least 7 feet above the floor and 1 foot below the ceiling.
- The blades of the fan should turn counterclockwise during the summer (reverse mode) and clockwise during the winter. During the winter the clockwise motion helps distribute the heat more evenly around the room by forcing warm ceiling air downward. In the winter, put the fan on its lowest speed to avoid causing a draft.
Enjoy the breeze!
Jo Ellen Soesbee, The ToolBox TomGirl
I screen, YOU screen, we ALL can screen
What was with that incredible wind, rain, and flailing tree branches this past week? That was one whirlwind of a storm. If you didn’t have any ripped screens (or lost power) then consider yourself lucky. I can’t begin to imagine how long it will take for the cleanup to be finished. Read below if you want help fixing those nuisance holes in your screens. I look forward to saving you money and giving you something simple to do that will frustrate those hovering mosquitoes.
- For really small holes you can fill metal screens in with a small dab of epoxy glue.
- To make your own patch for a larger nylon or fiberglass screen you will need to cut a patch of screening just a teeny bit larger than the hole. Apply a thin layer of fast-drying glue to the edges of the patch and press it into place to allow for quick adherence. Use low-tack painter’s tape to hold it against the screen until dry.
- To make a patch for a metal screen you will need a piece of metal screening larger than the hole, (about ½ inch larger all the way around) – you need to bend the edges into right angles and set the teeth so that they penetrate the screen. Turn the screen over and bend the teeth flat on the other side. (not as easy as it sounds).
- To replace a screen that is put in with spline (looks like stiff plastic string) you can buy the kit available in the store or use a small screwdriver to pry up the old spline and remove the entire screen. Take the old screen to the store so you buy the right kind of screening to replace it with.
- Cut out the replacement screening with a good pair of metal shears or scissors and position it over the metal channel (frame) so that it overlaps. Press it into the channel along the top of the frame using the convex end of a spline roller (comes in the kit or you can buy it separate – looks like a pizza cutter). If the screen is synthetic you won’t need to do this.
- Now cut a piece of the spline the length of the top edge of the frame. Start at one corner and push the spline into the channel using the concave side of the spline roller. Make sure the fit is VERY tight. Repeat the steps on the two sides – again be sure it is very tight. Do not have any wrinkles or it won’t be done correctly. Finish with the bottom edge.
- After all sides are done cut the excess screening off with a sharp utility knife.
Now you have repaired your screens and you can sit inside with the windows open again. No more nasty bugs will come after you.
I look forward to working with you. Let me know if there is anything you want to learn about or if you have a question that I can answer.
Don’t forget that my crew and I are here to serve YOU.
Here’s to women fixin’ stuff,
Jo Ellen Soesbee, The ToolBox TomGirl
Body and Tool Sense
After going through physical therapy for a sore, stiff back due to a car accident, I am more aware of the need for proper lifting, carrying, sitting and standing than ever before. I will never say you’re too delicate, small, fragile or weak to strap on a tool belt and get to work, but, I will say this:
Be careful doing it, you’re a woman.
I have a bunch of tips to share with you on working safely and making sure you stay healthy and strong enough to drill and keep your body in shape to work another day.
- The Right Tool for the Job is a Women’s Tool: Women differ structurally from men. Our upper body strength is typically in our lower body. Even if we have a very strong upper body, it can be difficult to handle a too-heavy tool safely. Look for lighter tools made specifically for women. Check the grips and handles for comfort. Make sure each tool you choose is balanced (not inclined to tip forward or backward while in use). Also, adjust the torque on your power tools ahead of time so you don’t hurt your wrist from the force.
- Bend Your Knees: Lift objects correctly. Keep whatever you are lifting close to your body, bend at the knees and put one foot slightly forward for balance.
- Pain = Stop: Keep your arms and wrists loose, relaxed and not over-stretched while working. And, as in all your undertakings, if it hurts – stop.
- Keep your eyes safe: Always wear eye protection – no matter how dorky you look. If you must, you can try on the new, more stylish safety glasses. Just don’t forfeit your eyesight for fashion.
- Sit Down on the Job: Instead of bending over, kneeling or squatting, find a low stool and sit. Do DIY in comfort.
- Protect Your Insides Too: Wear a mask when working around construction dust. Never forget your ventilation mask when working near chemicals.
- Don’t Be Shocked by DIY: Do not work around any kind of water when holding or being near electrical tools. You don’t even need to see obvious wetness. A damp surface or your own perspiration can cause electrical shock.
- Even Out Your Weight: When carrying tools, whether in a bucket, on a tool belt or in a tool chest, distribute the weight equally between your right and left hands and/or arms. Carrying excessive weight on one side can cause back and muscle strains.
With these tips in mind and some good common sense, you can repair basically everything without breaking, bruising, cutting or pulling some piece of yourself. And that’s important. After all, your wholeness, your healthiness, your well-being is what picking up a tool belt (correctly!) is really about; the knowledge and ability to take care of yourself in all possible ways.
Here’s to women doing it right,
Jo Ellen Soesbee, The ToolBox TomGirl
Mold, Mildew and Stains
Even in the cleanest of houses you have to deal with mold, mildew and stains. Sometimes we are aware that we have a leak or a flood or know that something is causing a stain. And then, sometimes, oh my – we find a sneaky, smelly mess and it overwhelms our senses. I’m here to help you. Don’t stress. It happens to the best of us.
Treating stains, mold and mildew is fairly simple. The most important thing though is to treat the problem. You need to find the source of the moisture and fix it before it becomes a major issue.
Funny as this might sound, leaving a light on in the seldom used damp-smelling closet is sometimes enough to solve the problem of mildew in that closet. It is enough light to stop more mildew from growing once you have cleaned it up. Or put in a moisture absorbing desiccant container. (I love Damp Rid)
When water gets on wood, plaster or drywall it takes some of the chemicals out and leaves behind a stain. That’s when we know there is a problem (unless we saw the drip or leak). Usually we see the mold or mildew stain as a brown or black spot and get spooked out. Sometimes the damage is enough that you will have to remove the spot and treat the area underneath but in cases where it is not, here are some steps to take.
- Use a mold removing product you get in the store or mix 3 parts water with 1 part laundry bleach. Use PROTECTIVE eyewear and gloves.
- Sponge the mixture on the wall – liberally. Allow 20 minutes and do it again even if the mold or mildew looks like it has disappeared.
- Now, rinse off the solution with clean water.
- Once the area is dry, clean it with TSP solution and apply a stain-blocking primer and paint.
Mold and mildew can be difficult to get rid of once it has gotten established in your home. If you find it’s coming back over and over I suggest you call a mold remediation company and ask for help.
Here’s to women cleaning up the mess,
Jo Ellen Soesbee, The ToolBox TomGirl
